How to Maintain a Metal Carport Shelter

Most consumers pay very little attention to their metal carport shelter once it has been installed. In order to extend the life of aluminum carports, it is important to handle repairs as soon as a problem occurs. This is easier said than done in most cases because unless you look at the shelter closely, you probably won’t see any problems until they become major. It takes about five minutes to do a good inspection of all of the components of your carport. Begin by first checking all of the joints and fasteners. You should immediately tighten any fasteners that are loose. If a joint is not sealed properly, leaks can occur causing even more damage than is necessary.

Next, you should check the roof for damage such as dents or cracks that could have been caused by a storm or other weather related event. Cracks pose the largest problem because they are the most likely to cause leaks to the surface below. Dents to the material on top of the shelter can cause water to puddle and in turn, the moisture may cause rust and deterioration of the material in that area.

Finally, you should check the beams and overall integrity of the metal carport shelter. Make sure beams and posts are level. A level shelter will stand up better to weather and overall exposure to the elements. If you find that your shelter is off kilt, it is important to remedy the problem immediately. If you are unsure of how to go about fixing such a problem, consult or hire a contractor to fix the problem.

Luckily most problems can be easily remedied without the help of a professional. Even rust can easily be sanded down and removed. Once done, the area can then be refinished with a protective outdoor paint or sealant. The same can be said for cracks. You can fill in the area with a caulking and then apply a protective finish to prevent more problems in the future. Dents on the roof top tend to be a little more difficult but again, if you find trouble doing the repairs yourself, don’t hesitate to consult with a professional like Seneca Creek Home Improvement. Carports don’t last forever, but if you take just a few minutes, every once in a while, to take a close inspection of the parts, you can easily add many more years of function to your aluminum carport.

Eliminate The Danger Of Your Old Garage Door With A Roller Garage Door

Are you one of those families that are still stuck with those old, heavy and dangerous garage doors? Fret no more! You can search and compare replacements from the comfort of your home through online garage doors retailers without having to break a sweat. A great option to go for is a roller garage door as they have many benefits.

Oftentimes, our very busy schedules prevent us from doing home repairs we committed to do months ago. I am sure that just like I, you have some friends that have been planning of changing their old garage doors due to the inherent danger and discomfort they had to endure all along. But then, because the old one is still functional, and urgent matters just keep on popping up from nowhere, this critical task gets relegated to the back burner more often than what one wanted.

To get the motivation to pin this reality down, let us go over the hassles of the old garage doors. First, they are very heavy to lift. It is so troublesome to open and close those doors. If one is not fit or healthy at the moment, another person will have to be called to help in the task. Second, it will always require conscious effort when one has to enter or leave one’s house. Whatever one’s physical condition is, he or she will need to go down off the vehicle to open the garage. Third, there is always the possibility that the garage door will be left unlocked, causing worry to the homeowner. Fourth, it is risky. While it is being lifted or closed down, miscalculation could hit something in its path. Or an unwitting adult or worse, an innocent child or an older member of the family may get in the way, causing damage and more trouble to everyone! Nobody wants an accident that is waiting to happen to keep on hanging over our heads, right? So, let us check out what can be done about this predicament-fast!

To beat this situation, it is best that we go through online shopping for the best garage door that fits our needs and our budget. There are different models and features to choose from. Generally, roll up garage doors are convenient to use because they are mechanically operated. It would only require a little push or pull, the press to a button which could be attached near the garage, or by remote control which is conveniently carried by the homeowner. Throw into this the beautiful colors, different materials and prices that fits your budget, and we are sure to get one that will not only eliminate the danger of the old garage, but will bring a new sight that is pleasing to the eyes and a comfort to everyone in the family.

Caulking Tips For A Professional Finish

Caulking doesn’t sound like a hard thing to do. And it really isn’t, but the effort you put into it can have huge rewards when done right. I consider caulking one of the basic home repair jobs that every aspiring handyman should learn how to do correctly. As with anything else, there is a right way and a wrong way to caulk.
Caulking Tips For The Home Handyman

First off, I can’t stress how important it is to make sure any surface or surfaces that you’re cleaning be dry and clean. Proper prepping is very important to how well your caulk job will perform.

If you’re caulking two painted edges, like at window corners, make sure you clean any loose or old paint at the edges to be caulked.

When caulking tight corners, if you’re not good at freehanding, then use a piece of painters tape and apply it horizontally, leaving just a bit of the material exposed at the corner for the caulk to adhere to. Wipe the caulk away while it’s wet (you can use a wet finger to do this), the caulk should be pressed into the deep recesses of the corner when you wipe the excess away.

When you remove the tape, it should leave a neat bead in the corner.

Here’s another tip for caulking corners. Always cut the tip at a 45 degree corner. I will then mark the top of the 45 somehow so that I always know where the top is. You can use a pencil or scratch awl. I personally prefer a Sharpie. Now you have no excuse for making a crappy caulk line.

Finally, before putting the caulk gun and caulk up for the day, I prefer to leave a small glob at the tip. When this dries, it acts as an air tight seal so that air will not cause the whole tube to set up. Plus, when you get ready to use the tube again, you just pull this glob off and you’re ready to go. No digging old, dried up caulk out of the nozzle.

I hope this caulking tips will help you do a better and more professional looking job the next time your break the caulk gun out!

Professional Drywall Tips For The DIY’er

If it’s one thing that a lot of DIY’ers get into trouble with it comes to drywall home repairs. It looks easy enough on YouTube or in a book, but once you start slinging the mud, weird things can happen. No one told the drywall, tape and mud that it was suppose to be easy and trouble free. Then when you start talking about matching texture, the home DIY’er quickly realizes they may have bit off more than they bargained for. Hopefully, these drywall tips will help you become better at repairing drywall.

A good repair job will start by how you cut the piece that is to be repaired. I know some people who’ve tried to repair drywall between the studs. This is just ridiculous! I prefer that I have some type of backer between each side of the drywall patch. Preferably studs. If I can’t use a stud, there are commercial products designed to stiffen the new piece of drywall while you patch it. I myself will just use a 1×4 slid up behind the drywall patch and screw the edges in place. Make sure all edges are flush or you’ll have a noticeable repair on your hands.

The first thing you’ll need to make sure of is that you get the right kind of drywall mud. Most homeowners will find that the premixed all purpose drywall compound will be fine for repair work.

Mesh or Drywall tape? Again, I prefer the mesh for home repair work. Some will go with the adhesive backed mesh, but I haven’t had much luck with it when trying to repair a large section. I normally just get the non adhesive mesh and make it stick with just small amounts of compound.

I also like to use two strips of mesh overlapping. I think this gives the edges of the repair more strength.

Another mistake a lot of people make is putting too much mud on the seam or repair. More mud does not make for a better repair, actually it weakens the repair! Use as thin of a mud joint as you can. I prefer to let the joint set overnight and thoroughly dry. If you live in the SouthWest where the humidity is virtually nil, then you might be able to apply a second coat within a few hours.

For the best results, let the first coat dry thoroughly and sand it. Apply another thin coat and let it also dry thoroughly and sand it. The edges of your repair should be flush and blend in with the rest of the wall. If not, it’s your repair, if you can live with it, fine. If not, you can either start over or sand down the high spots and fill the low spots until they’re not noticeable, but I haven’t had much luck with this.

Once you have the edges flush, then comes the next part. Some people will just throw texture up on a piece of sheetrockk and then paint it. I’m a little different. I guess it’s because I’m a perfectionist. This is how I do it.

I will prime the new sheetrock with a good primer. Original Kilz is my favorite if you can stand the smell. I then let the primer dry completely. Then I’ll texture the patched area. Just make sure you match the texture first. Don’t use Orange peel if you have a knock down texture. I know this may sound elementary, but you’d be surprised at how often this happens.

Also, I shy away from that texture in a can stuff. I’ve tried every brand I could find and just haven’t found any I thought was acceptable. Save yourself the trouble and pass on it. For repair jobs, I use a Wagoner Power Tex texture gun. This little gem works wonders on repair jobs. You can choose the type of texture you want to apply by changing the nozzles. It’s also very easy to clean up afterwards.

The Wagoner Power Tex is not an air operated texture gun. It operates on electric and has a small motor at the rear that blows the air through the gun. It’s very effective for small areas.

As for texture, I’ve used the powdered texture you mix up. But I really prefer premixed joint compound for repairs. I add just a little bit of water to thin the compound up. If it’s too thick, it won’t work in the Wagoner.

You’ll do yourself a favor it you practice with the Wagoner Power Tex on a scrap piece of cardboard before you try it on your wall. Practice until your results look like the texture on your wall and then spray the repaired area. After I’ve sprayed the repaired area, I let the texture set 10 to 15 minutes so it can start setting up (for knockdown texture). I’ll then knock it down and call it a day.

Just like my joints, I let the texture set over night and dry completely before doing anything else. Once they are completely dry, I might ever so lightly hit the area with a fine sander if I think it needs it. I clean the area up, prime it once again before painting. After that coat of primer has dried, I’ll then paint the area. If it’s a large area, you may have to repaint the whole wall to get it to match. Hey, it was about time you repainted that room anyway. Right?

I hope this will help you on your next drywall repair job!